MODALISBOA OCTOBER 2026: THE COLLECTIONS AND YOUNG DESIGNERS TO WATCH

ModaLisboa October 2026: The Collections and Young Designers Shaping Portuguese Fashion

From October 7 to 11, the 67th edition of ModaLisboa / Lisboa Fashion Week brought together established designers, artistic collaborations and a new generation of creative talent in Lisbon. Among the most compelling proposals, the young designers selected for SANGUE NOVO stood out with their personal approach to clothing, combining textile experimentation, sculptural volumes and references to their cultural heritage.

At Pátio da Galé, as well as at MUDE, the National Palace of Ajuda and several other locations across the capital, the 67th edition of Lisboa Fashion Week brought established designers into conversation with a new generation of talent. More than a simple succession of runway shows, the programme also opened fashion up to other disciplines, from textile art and photography to discussions about creativity and the development of independent brands.

It is precisely this balance between experience and renewal that makes ModaLisboa so interesting. And this season, several young names deserve a closer look.

SANGUE NOVO: the essential showcase for discovering Portugal’s young designers

For anyone interested in fashion’s emerging voices, SANGUE NOVO remains one of the highlights of ModaLisboa/Lisboa Fashion Week. The young designers’ competition offers a glimpse into projects that are still evolving, but some of which already possess a strong enough identity to make a lasting impression. Ten designers ( Albert Porta, Alexandra Sousa, Catarina Pica, Elio, Francisco Martinho, Granatum, João Pecuro, Marta Amorim, Matheus Dauzaker, Ronni) presented their proposals on October 9.

Following this first stage, five finalists were selected: Elio, Francisco Martinho, Granatum, Marta Amorim and Ronni. They will return in March 2027 with new collections as part of the next edition of Lisboa Fashion Week.

What stands out in this selection is the diversity of approaches. There is no single trend to which every participant is expected to conform. Some designers favour an urban wardrobe that is immediately accessible, while others explore the sculptural potential of clothing or draw inspiration from materials and landscapes. It is a welcome diversity, and one that shows that Portuguese emerging fashion cannot be reduced to a single aesthetic. Let's take a look at the proposals ! 

Granatum: when the sea becomes a source of inspiration

Granatum was one of the most distinctive proposals of this edition. Behind the label is Marta Estrela, who draws on the marine world to create a wardrobe in which references to the sea go far beyond a few blue-and-white stripes. Shells become decorative elements, while sardines are transformed into buttons. Nautical-inspired stripes are combined with tweed made from fabric scraps, creating silhouettes that retain a certain classic elegance.

The result is compelling because it avoids turning the theme into a simple visual illustration. Marine references are integrated directly into the construction of the garments and their smallest details. The materials tell a story without overpowering the silhouette. Granatum is one of those young labels worth following for its ability to develop a recognisable visual vocabulary. Its approach should appeal to anyone looking for creative fashion with a strong focus on materials and details, without sacrificing wearability.

Francisco Martinho: clothing as architecture

With Francisco Martinho, the focus shifts towards construction. The young designer works with structured fabrics, laser-cut details and transparencies to create volumes that alter the perception of the body.

Some finishes appear deliberately unfinished, as though the seams and different stages of production have been left visible. This gives the garments an experimental quality while placing pattern cutting at the centre of the collection.

What is particularly striking is the way the silhouette seems to evolve through the fabric itself. Clothing is no longer designed simply to cover the body, but to create shape, movement and, at times, a tension between structure and lightness. It is an especially interesting direction at a time when volume and the rethinking of proportions continue to fuel some of fashion’s most creative proposals.

Marta Amorim: exploring volume and colour

Another finalist to watch, Marta Amorim also approaches clothing through its construction, but with a more colourful expression. Her proposal combines structured fabrics and sculptural shapes with a palette of orange, green, purple and blue. Cut-outs, pattern cutting and cords help create movement throughout the silhouettes. Colour is not used simply to attract attention. It supports the work on volume and contributes to the identity of the collection. It is a reminder of how powerfully a cut can transform a garment, even when the individual elements remain relatively simple.

Marta Amorim is worth following for this formal exploration, which suggests several promising directions for the future. The next step will be to see how this visual language develops in a more complete collection.

Ronni: streetwear with a strong sense of identity

With Ronni, Ronaldo Pina offers a more urban vision of menswear. The designer incorporates references to his Cape Verdean heritage into a collection built around volume, frayed garments and cords. Brown and beige tones are punctuated with purple, while the materials and finishes give the pieces a relaxed attitude. The result is streetwear designed to be worn, without abandoning attention to detail.

That balance is precisely what makes the proposal so interesting. Where some experimental collections focus primarily on image, Ronni appears to be looking for a dialogue between personal expression and the realities of a contemporary wardrobe. It is an approach worth following, particularly for the way it shows how a new generation of designers can incorporate cultural references without reducing them to a purely aesthetic statement.

Elio: menswear between denim, knitwear and leather

Currently pursuing a Master’s degree in Fashion Design at the University of Lisbon, Élio Ramos uses clothing as a means of exploring identity, masculinity and vulnerability. Through his label ELIO, he questions traditional perceptions of the male body, translating personal experiences and contemporary cultural influences into an experimental design language. His latest collection brings this vision into a streetwear-inspired menswear wardrobe, combining leather, denim and knitwear to create an urban aesthetic with a distinctive character. Balancing creative exploration with wearability, Elio is developing a recognisable identity that goes beyond the runway, offering a personal perspective on contemporary menswear.

The five SANGUE NOVO finalists will benefit from a mentoring programme, as well as support in communications and showroom development. In March 2027, they will present new collections and compete for the prizes associated with the programme. So stay tuned !

ModaLisboa: established designers remain essential to the conversation

Although emerging talent naturally attracts attention, the strength of this edition also lies in the way young designers were presented alongside established names. Among the highlights, Béhen and Constança Entrudo’s AD HOC project, created in collaboration with French artist Marie Hazard, reflected ModaLisboa’s openness to dialogue between fashion, textiles and artistic practice. The programme also welcomed Adolfo Domínguez, who made his runway debut at Lisboa Fashion Week.

This edition of ModaLisboa brought together a diverse lineup of designers who showcased their latest collections in the Portuguese capital, including other names as Gonçalo Peixoto, Kolovrat, Nuno Baltazar, Roselyn Silva, Dino Alves, Valentim Quaresma, DuarteHajime, Luís Onofre, Bárbara Atanásio, Arndes, Mestre Studio, Francisca Nabinho, Ariana Orrico, Çal Pfungst and 2B.

Another notable moment came from Luís Carvalho, who presented his collection at the National Palace of Ajuda, within the Royal Treasury Museum. The historic setting offered an evocative backdrop for the architectural lines that define his work.

Carlos Gil, meanwhile, staged a presentation that extended from MUDE to Rua Augusta. By moving beyond the traditional runway setting, the initiative brought fashion closer to the everyday life of Lisbon.

Together, these proposals show that Portuguese fashion is developing on several levels: through creative research, established brands and a cultural scene that continues to seek new spaces for expression in Lisbon.

For more infos > modalisboa.pt/